When you travel, staying in strange places, and doing different things, a lot of ridiculous things happen from time to time. So, lest we forget, here are some of the more unusual things that have happened so far.
Friday, January 26, 2007
Ridulous Things
Napier-Deco City
When we were in
After leaving Napier for
There are also wonderful street works, with very elaborate paving under the parking and at crosswalks. It reminded me of what we are trying to do at UniverCity!
what things cost
Avocados and Prawns
One of our favourite white wines in
While some cafés in
Sunday, January 21, 2007
from the Bay of Islands to the Bay of Plenty
I’m reluctant to write about our beach and golf activities given the recent weather reports from Vancouver. But I will nonetheless.
Our first outing in New Zealand was to the Bay of Islands, about 3 and ½ hours north of Auckland. It’s well known for its beaches, boating and fishing. There are two main communities, Paihia and Russell. We decided to stay in sleepy little Russell, which is considered ‘the second town’, since it was described in one of our many guidebooks as being far more interesting, and pleasant, than Paihia. I also wanted to try out the Duke of Marlborough, an historic waterfront Hotel and the first establishment in New Zealand to gain a pub license. (I’m still smarting over not attracting a pub to UniverCity!)
As they say, getting there is half the fun. When we rented a car in Auckland, the agent warned us that traveling off-road could nullify our insurance. “Don’t worry” I told him. “I had a 4-wheel drive Lexus and rarely took it off-road”. Five hours later, we were sliding around a winding gravel road, since I decided to take a short-cut! When we arrived at the hotel, and told the girl at reception about the route we had taken, she asked whether we saw many cars abandoned along the road. “No, not many” I responded. “Oh good she said,” adding that if your car breaks down in the area, it’s totally stripped down within hours!
We had a wonderful evening in the hotel’s main dining room. We met up with Mike and Alana, a worldly Auckland couple with three delightful girls who were staying in Paihia, a short ferry ride away. We talked about our respective travels, house exchanges, and what to do in the Bay of Islands. Within a few minutes, we could tell that nine year old Tegan was the most responsible member of the family. She was delightful. But after a while, she started to nag her father. “Shouldn’t we be going to the ferry, daddy?”
“It’s OK dear, we’ll wait until I can see it approaching”, he replied, pouring another beer. By 10:30 she was becoming very agitated, despite her father’s assurances that it would arrive any moment. At which point the waiter finally spoke up. “Well actually sir, the last ferry leaves Paihia at 10:30. The last Russell ferry departed at 10”. We offered to put them all up in our room, but Alana responded that they were paying $475 a night for their hotel, and would somehow find a water taxi to get back. After a few more glasses of wine, we all set off for our respective homes away from home.
The next day, we followed their advice and arranged for a boat outing in the area. We took the Supercruise aboard a high speed catamaran. You follow about half of what was once called the “Cream Trip” route, but nowadays, instead of picking up cream from farms, the boat delivers mail and supplies to vacation homes. As we dropped off parcels at each property, I couldn’t help but think that in America, these would be fake packages, orchestrated to enhance the whole experience. But these really were groceries and cases of Sauvignon Blanc.
A highlight of the outing was being submerged by the Nautilus, a tourist submarine. While we didn’t see any of the local sharks, we did see a lot of snapper. Sally immediately decided that was what she wanted for dinner. I decided that we should go fishing the next day, although I was concerned what we would do with our catch.
But, the next day, instead of going fishing, or waiting for the Drifters Concert, we decided to set off to see Te Matua Ngahere (The father of the forest), the oldest tree in New Zealand. It’s a kauri, found in the Waipoua Kauri Forest, on the west coast of the North Island. With a trunk over 5m in diameter, it is estimated to be over 2000 years of age. The guidebook said it had to be seen to be believed. I must confess that compared to some of the redwoods I’ve seen on the California Coast, this tree didn’t seem as impressive; especially since many of the upper branches had fallen off, and it was becoming quite misshapen. Again, had this been America, I’m sure there would have been an extensive network of guide wires to keep it all together. But, as one of the viewing New Zealanders said as I made the comment, “But it wouldn’t be the same, would it?”
From the Bay of Islands, we traveled to the Bay of Plenty, on the east coast, south of Auckland. It was named by explorer James Cook for the abundant supply of food he found here. But today, it is better known for its plentiful supply of beaches, hotels and vacation homes. We stayed in Tauranga, one of New Zealand’s fastest-growing cities. With its row of waterfront bars and restaurants, it is truly a party town. But we preferred the small community surrounding the formerly volcanic Mt. Maunganui, where we played a very hot round of golf, followed by a dip in the hot springs.
Today we’re off to Lake Taupo, missing the well known tourist spot of Rotorua, which we will catch on the drive back. At least that’s the plan; although, to be honest, we really don’t have a plan. We have no idea how long it will take to get to our southerly destinations, or to drive back. And it doesn’t matter. What we do know is that this is a great country to visit.
The food is excellent. The golf is very affordable. There are a lot of wineries to visit, fish to catch and places to visit. I am also looking forward to seeing Wellington and Christchurch, which will hopefully inspire my next story for the Sun. I am sending off my Auckland story today, which will hopefully appear on January 27th. So until our next posting, e noho ra (goodbye to person staying).
Tuesday, January 16, 2007
Auckland, the city of sails
It's been most interesting. In some respects, the city is very similar to Vancouver. It's clean, cosmopolitan, with many wonderful views over the water. But there are some differences. For one thing, at many intersections pedestrians do not cross the road the same way as in Vancouver. No Neil, they're not on their hands and knees. But they cross in all directions at once. And when I say all directions I mean all directions; from east to west, north to south, and even on the diagonal. It's like a street party every minute or so.
The housing scene here is also quite interesting, with many similarities, but also differences. New Zealanders are as obsessed with their real estate as Vancouverites. However, mortgage rates start at 8%. There's no capital gain on investment property, and condominiums are starting to gain popularity in the city. More about this in the January 27th edition of the Vancouver Sun.
We encountered an interesting problem on arrival. Our HSBC ATM cards didn't work in the airport's ATM machines. This complicated our trip into the city, particularly since the coins which Sally's sister had given us, are no longer legal tender! But we discovered that that line about HSBC being the world's local bank is quite true. After walking into the head office, and flashing our Premier cards, we found we had new friends at HSBC Auckland. Hopefully they will continue to give us money whenever we need it.
A few highlights...the food. We expected good wines in New Zealand, but we have been very impressed with all our meals. At first, the prices seem high, but they include GST and service. There's no tipping in restaurants. The staff are paid a reasonable wage, and are therefore not dependent on tips as they are in Canada. It's the same in Australia. What we also like is having the GST included in all the prices. There are no ugly surprises, even in hotels. Why doesn't the Canadian government have the sense to include the GST in all our pricing. I'm sure it would help tourism, as well as placate the rest of us, who hate being reminded on a daily basis how much we are handing over to the government. So what are we eating? Lamb, and mussels of course. Some wonderful fish. And also a very interesting take on the caesar salad, and ostrich.
One of the things we have enjoyed is the ferry trip to the north shore. We have been over a couple of times, to Devonport, a lovely seaside village, with a great pub, and restaurants. We have found that late at night you also make very interesting friends on this ferry. Last night it was an American touring around on a small scooter. He was here as an official for the New Zealand tennis tournament, and we were astounded to discover he didn't know Evelyn O'connor's son Chris, who is an official at the Australian Open. Our new friend was astounded to discover that ferry officials wouldn't allow him to take his bike on the ferry. This was of particular concern since he had already been told he couldn't ride it over the bridge. So wherever you are, our new friend we hope you made it. Especially since as evidenced by your photo, you really weren't dressed for a long night on the road!
Today, we had a wonderful day at the museum. We particularly enjoyed experiencing what it would be like to live through a volcano, and learning about the Maori people and comparing their lives with the Canadian Natives. There seems to be a greater level of respect and collaboration between New Zealanders and their original settlers. But I don't know why, because on the advice of the Lonely Planet Travel Guide, we took in the native song and dance show at the museum. It was terrible. Based on this performance, the Maoris can't sing. And they do have this unfortunate habit of sticking their tongues out before going into battle, or assaulting white women from BC.
So tomorrow we are off to the Bay of Islands, which we are told is a wonderful seaside resort area. It will be nice to get away from the city, and play some golf. (I'm only saying this since I understand there may be snow on the ground in Vancouver!) But we will be back to Auckland in early February, since there's much more to see. Hell, we haven't yet tried bungee jumping from the top of the tower.
Sunday, January 14, 2007
Something to worry about...
It's Sunday morning.
I write from the living room of our suite in the Duxton Hotel, overlooking
website to use, and whether to pay the premium for an 'ocean' rather than 'bush' view!
We started looking at
Well, of course it never occurred to me that they would not have wireless or cable internet service in the Air Pacific business lounge. But they didn't. However, I was picking up a signal from Rosies Travel Club lounge next door.
Desperate to have a hotel reservation before I left, I went over to Rosies. There I saw two empty terminals, and I begged the attendant to let me use one for a moment.
“”Not allowed” she said. “Against company policy.”
Now, I must confess my behavior was somewhat influenced by Jim Rogers, the founder of Quantum Funds, and the author of the first book I am reading on this trip, (other than hundreds of travel guides). Entitled 'Investment Biker’, it’s an account of his 22 month 52 country motorcycle trip around the world.
(I shouldn't really be reading this book, because his adventures make ours seem quite mundane in comparison. But throughout his travels, he demonstrates a level of determination which I find most admirable. It's a good read, especially if you want to know what's happening in the middle of Siberia orMy new friend Jimmy would not have left Rosie’s lounge without making a reservation. So, eventually they let me use their computer, and I quickly booked a hotel on 'wotif', our favourite last minute hotel site. Sally thought it looked the best. And she was right. With over 400 square feet and in-suite washer and dryer, it’s a wonderful base for 5 days in the city.
Now as for
More about Auckland in our next post. Now we are off to buy an apartment!
Wednesday, January 10, 2007
Suva, the nation's capital
I didn’t really know what to expect.
Our taxi driver pointed out the KFC outlet and McDonalds, assuming that they would be important to us. What was of interest was the relatively new 6 cinema complex which was showing Borat and other films now playing on
We visited the local market where we were intrigued to find fruits and vegetables that we had never before seen in our life. Sally wanted a lime for her early morning beverage. (No Jim, it’s not a gin and tonic!) They were ten for a dollar. But she only wanted one. It took a lot of effort to finally convince a merchant to sell us one for 20 cents!
Sandra, the daughter of one of Sally’s friends, picked us up at our hotel, and took us to the Royal Suva Yacht Club, for a harbour tour in their boat before dinner. It was a beautiful evening, and while the city’s skyline does not rival Vancouver or Sydney, it was very beautiful to see the sun setting on the horizon. The layers of distant islands and mountains reminded us of a Tony Onley painting.
Masi, her architect husband and I talked about bamboo. He’s involved with Habitat for Humanity, and most interested in building affordable housing. He recently tried to get into
Now, as for the coup, for me it’s a bit like global warming. Let me explain. Just when I think I understand what’s happening with global warming, I hear another opinion that forces me to reconsider my views. It’s the same with the coup. From everything I had been reading in the paper, I was beginning to think the coup was perhaps a good thing. It was replacing corrupt political leaders with representatives of both political parties, who were genuinely concerned with helping the poor. The military had even appointed new Ministers who knew something about their portfolios. (I mean, how often does that happen in
Instead, what she told me is that this is a cruel military regime, with little concern for human rights, which has ousted a democratically elected government. Furthermore, this is one in a series of racially motivated events that are not likely to stop in the near future. (Sally doesn’t want me to say much more, in case someone from the government reads our blog!)
It’s sad, because
You must visit the smaller islands...
When I told people in
We met very interesting people, primarily from
The cruise included a tour of a number of native
villages. I expected charming thatched huts, somewhat sanitized by the continual arrival of cruise ship passengers. While there were a few such buildings, the majority were very run down wood structures, without running water and electricity.
However, one village did have solar panels and a satellite dish for emergency telephone service.
When we arrived at one of the islands, the children were assembled outside their school to perform for the visitors. They did so in return for donations which they could use to buy supplies for their school. While I found it a bit difficult to get over the odours, and general lack of cleanliness, I was overwhelmed by the
kids’ happy faces, and general sense of joy. At dinner that evening, we all agreed that these children certainly seemed much happier than the school kids back at home.
As for kava, it is not alcoholic, but I’m told it has a certain narcotic quality. It was served following a ritual ceremony that
included grinding the natural root of the kava plant, mixing it with water, and straining it through straw and cloth. Some people told me that it would taste like dirty dish water. It’s hard to describe the taste, but it certainly wasn’t as bad as Anne had feared. A spinster teacher at an Australian private Catholic girls’ school, she confided to me that one of her colleagues had warned her the only way to rid your mouth of the taste was to lick a dog’s bum!
Following the cruise, we decided to check out The Pearl, which a guidebook described as a very over designed, contemporary resort, with a Robert Trent Jones golf course. Located in
There are a couple of explanations. One is obviously the coup, and our proximity to
As for the coup, we’re hoping to find out what is really going on, as we set off for
Thursday, January 4, 2007
Getting Away
“What storage coverage do you want”, asked the only insurance agent at
Given that it would be parked in a lower level spot in a secured garage, without licence plates, I decided this wasn’t necessary either.
“Third Party”, he asked. “Why do I need Third Party?” I responded, noting that I won’t be driving. “Well, what if it slips, and smashes into another car, and sets the whole parkade on fire? You’ll be wiped out”. I then realized that he was working New Year’s Eve because he was the best insurance salesman they had!
We eventually got out of there, and thanks to the efforts of daughter Claire, and my sister Estelle, we got everything cleaned, filed, copied and packed. By 4:18, Sally and I stood outside the house with our two new pieces of luggage, for a final photo.
We set off on New Year’s Eve. Although we were missing Bruce Langerais’ bash at the Hotel Georgia, I expected an equally lively party in the Business Class Section of our Air Pacific flight to
“Do you have anything else?” I asked. “I see no reason why not”, replied the agent. You and Mrs. Geller are the only two people booked in Business Class.” Fortunately Claire had prepared us special going away packages with HAPPY NEW YEAR silver foil hats. We would have to make our own party.
The flight, through
Around 4 am, the pilot announced he had bad news.
We would be arriving early. Now normally this is good news, but when the scheduled arrival is 5:45, an early arrival means less sleep. My other bad news was that I didn’t have any Fijian dollars, and the airport’s ATM machine was broken! What to do? Fortunately, there was another machine, and we managed to purchase Fijian dollars. The taxi drive to
We're at the Sheraton Fiji on Denarau Island. You enter into an impressive lobby with a view of the pool and the ocean.
We picked this hotel because it is part of a large resort complex, surrounding one of
We also picked this hotel since there is a military coup taking place in Fiji, which means much better rates than usual. Sadly, New Zealand and Australia have cautioned their citizens from coming. However, the coup is not affecting tourist life at all, and we would urge all Canadians to come and enjoy an island with the friendliest people in the world. At very good hotel rates.
We spent much of our first day in paradise. Our only problems were choosing the right sunscreen, and picking the right restaurant. Our first effort was a complete failure. Everyone recommended the same place, just outside of Nadi. After searching for an hour and a half, and even enlisting the assistance of the local police, we finally found the place, only to see a cardboard sign announcing it was closed for renovations.
The taxi ride back to our hotel was, to say the least, unusual. I made the mistake, of sitting in the front. While the smiling, toothless, and weathered faced driver claimed to have 8 children and many grandchildren, he seemed to have a great fondness for my right thigh!
We ended our first very long day eating kakoda, marinated local fish served in coconut cream and lime, at our hotel’s beachside restaurant. As the sun set behind a row of flaming torches along the water’s edge, local musicians sang, and lovely Australian girls played on the beanbag chairs in the sand.
How wonderful it will be if the next 240 days are just like our first.