The Michelin Guide gives three stars to the Petite Suisse Luxembourgeoise, a small area of the country near the German border, bounded by the Moselle River. We would have taken a boat trip along the river, which is really quite narrow in many places, but we couldn’t find a parking space in Remich, one of the towns where the boat docked. I mean literally....nowhere to park at a quarter to three on a Sunday afternoon.The reason? The entire town and many visitors from Luxembourg, France and Germany were all playing in the riverside parks or having their Sunday lunch in the parade of restaurants looking out over the river. So we ended up cruising the river …in our car, which was really no hardship, since the views were spectacular, and we were able to stop off in a number of the small villages set amongst the vineyards which lined both banks of the river.Although my father was a fan of German wines ( he developed an appreciation for them AFTER he was rescued from a German prisoner of war camp), I have never been particularly fond of them. However, our first stop was Ehnen, a small wine growing village, where we enjoyed a bottle of local Rivaner in a riverside restaurant which offered a Sunday noon all-you-can-eat buffet. Nine hours later, and I still was not hungry.
One surprising feature of the regional small towns along the river was the extensive use of colour on the buildings. However, looking across the river at the small German villages, I realized why...here one also finds a similar colour palette. It’s not quite as dramatic as Albania, but it’s certainly more colourful than what we found in Belgium.At one point I thought about going over the bridge to Germany to look around, but decided against it. However, an hour later I was surprised to have someone race past me with German plates. When I looked more carefully, I realized that most cars had German plates. Somehow I had crossed into Germany without even realizing it! At that point, Sally decided to turn the navigation unit on and fifteen minutes later, we were back in Luxembourg.
After a day of exploring and being tempted by the hot spring waters of Mondorf-Les-Bains, a popular spa town, we decided to settle for the night in the very attractive town of Echternach. Since we had not reserved any accommodation, I spent an hour searching hotels on the internet while having a drink in a cafe overlooking the main square... only to end up booking the one hotel recommended in the Michelin guide which turned out to be right next door.A major consideration in choosing this hotel was its very high satisfaction rating from previous guests. If you don’t use TripAdvisor or similar websites to check out guest comments, you are missing out on some useful information. As an aside, I was tempted by some photos and the description of a more deluxe hotel set in extensive gardens just outside of the town. However, when I checked the guest rating it was not that high and comments noted that the property was located at the junction of two very busy streets and one guest complained that the least expensive bottle of wine in the restaurant was 28 euros.
(I will add my comments about the hotel where we stayed. It was well located; extremely clean and good value for money. But the TV was very small and although there were 34 stations, none were in English! There was also no internet, both a blessing and a curse. ) The next morning, we set off for Vianden, a very picturesque hillside village, overlooked by a very large castle. We could have spent quite a bit of time exploring, but we were looking forward to getting to Brussels and wanted to keep enough time for other finds along the way as we drove through the Ardennes, the forested and mountainous region of Luxembourg and Belgium.
It was not quite like driving the road to Squamish, but with a lot of tight hairpin turns it was a very different experience than touring the rest of the country which is about as flat as the Richmond Golf and Country Club. The road included plenty of warnings for motorcyclists (I suspect there had been a few accidents) and it was interesting to see roadside markings painted on trees that had been specially planted along the side of the road in some areas.On a somewhat related matter, when I read in the Vancouver Sun that there had been a tragic accident in Vancouver at a location where there had been 60 other accidents in the previous four years, (the Assistant City Engineer said it was about normal), I could not help but wonder why the city doesn't install signs letting motorists and pedestrians know this is a dangerous intersection.
Also, compared to Belgium, Vancouver pedestrian crossings are very poorly marked. Here one often finds pedestrian crossings marked by tall black and yellow poles with extra lighting, even in the middle of a small town. It might be overkill (if you'll pardon the pun) but I suspect it works!
As promised, Criterion will be releasing a box-set to coincide close with what would have been Akira Kurosawa's 100th birthday (which happens to be on the same day as my 26th anniversaire). The set, which retails for about $400, contains 25 films, some of which will be making their R1 DVD premiere, and does not include Ran, as Eric pointed out to me. The included titles are listed below (bold for DVD premiere):
- Sanshiro Sugata (1943) - Sanshiro Sugata 2 (1945) - Most Beautiful, The (1944) - The Men Who Tread on the Tiger's Tail (1945) - No Regrets for Our Youth (1946) - One Wonderful Sunday (1947) - Drunken Angel (1948) - Stray Dog (1949) - Scandal (1950) - Rashômon (1950) - Idiot, The (1951) - Ikiru (1952) - Seven Samurai (1954) - I Live in Fear (1955) - Throne of Blood (1957) - Lower Depths, The (1957) - Hidden Fortress, The (1958) - Bad Sleep Well, The (1960) - Yojimbo (1961) - Sanjuro (1962) - High and Low (1963) - Red Beard (1965) - Dodes'ka-den (1970) - Kagemusha (1980) - Madadayo (1993)
Madadayo was previously released by Fox Lorber/Wellspring whose library was (supposedly) owned by The Weinstein Company. I have no idea what that means in terms of other Fox Lorber/Wellspring titles. AK 100 will be available on 8 December.
In other DVD news, Kino has announced Loren Cass for 24 November. Lionsgate will be releasing a number of Blu-rays on the same date: Air America, Angel Heart, Frailty, The Monster Squad and New Police Story, as well as Cujo, My Bloody Valentine and The Way of the Gun which I already mentioned.
Sally wanted to come to Luxembourg because her sister danced the Luxembourg polka for the Penguin Concert Party.I wanted to come because I always had a fascination with the country since my stamp collecting days.
We had planned to take the train since on the map of Belgium, Luxembourg seemed a long distance away. However, on Friday night we started to chat to a couple in a restaurant who, it turned out, lived in Luxembourg.“How long will it take you to drive home?”Sally asked.“Oh, about 3 hours” they said. (Actually, they said trois heures, since they spoke to us in French”.
“Is that all?” Sally exclaimed.At which point I realized it was foolish for us to take the train…for one thing, it took four hours, and for another, having a car would allow us to explore more of the area.Furthermore, on Monday we were planning to go to Brussels which is less than two hours from Luxembourg.And so early Saturday morning we set off for Luxembourg, which is both a city and a country…the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. After two hours we stopped to get some gas and use the facilities and who did we see…. our new Luxembourgish friends from the restaurant.C’est vraiment une petite monde. (We now realize that they probably thought we were following them!)
Luxembourg the country has a population of about 450,000 and the city has a population of about 84,000. It sits on top of a sandstone bluff, with deep gorges along a river that separates the old town from the ‘new town’; although it should be noted that the new town was built in the early 20th century. A very impressive 'red bridge' connects different parts of the city.In the early 50’s Luxembourg became the headquarters of the European Coal and Steel Community which was a sort of forerunner for the creation of the European Economic Community or Common Market in 1957. At that time Luxembourg and Strasbourg became the alternating homes of the General Secretariat.
While I had seen images of older Luxembourg buildings, I did not really know what to expect.
We took a ‘hop on hop off’ bus trip around the city and enjoyed some dramatic views and significant differences between the different parts of the city.As a general comment, it feels quite different from the parts of Belgium we have been frequenting, by virtue of its topography and vegetation.But like Belgium, the city is clean and well kept.
Although Brussels is now the primary capital city of the ECC, Luxembourg has continued to be the home of many ECC entities which are housed in some very impressive new ECC buildings located around the ‘European Precinct’on the Kirchberg Plateau.This area is vehicle oriented and feels quite ‘futuristic’ and reminded both Sally and me of Brasilia, another purpose built capital city.In addition to the government buildings and related private sector offices, there is also a new shopping mall designed by a famous French architect... and very impressive Philharmonic Hall. A prominent site is reserved for this sculpture of 'the thin banker'. (While a fat banker might have been a more appropriate image for the country, I suspect it would have used up too much material and cast too much shadow.)We discovered a new residential area that is being developed for European functionaires and others moving to the city. Some of the buildings were very attractive.While I knew that Luxembourgers spoke both French and German, I didn’t realize that they have their own language…Luxembourgois which is a mixture of both.Students also learn English at school, making them multi-lingual at a very early age.
Luxembourg is expensive. It cost 1.1 euros (about $1.75) to use the public toilet in the train station. While the hotels are fairly priced, (perhaps due in part to a recent government directive that encourages conference calls as an alternative to business trips) we found the restaurants to be more expensive than Belgium…28 euros or $44 dollars is fairly standard for a main course in an average restaurant…and the seafood platter with a half lobster (a Canadian lobster I might add) that we enjoyed on the Belgium coast for 29 euros, was 60 euros in a comparable restaurant in Luxembourg.(Which, I guess is why our Luxembourger friend was eating there too!)
It was impressive, but after 24 hours, we were ready to head off, and explore more of the country.On the advice of a number of people, and our Michelin Guide, we decided to set off for the Moselle and the highly rated Petite Swiss Luxembourgoise.
We programed our GPS navigator and were shocked to discover it would take us almost three hours! But then we remembered that we had re-programmed the unit from 'vehicle' to 'pedestian' travel...in fact it took about 20 minutes to get to the Moselle.
When I mentioned in the 2005 edition of Albums/Singles that another of my favorite albums of the remaining four years was likely going to align with Pitchfork's choice, 2006 was the year. The Knife's Silent Shout is an album to be reckoned with, one that I'm still unable to rid from my mind. It's the sort of album that serves as a teleportation device for the mind, soaring it into uncharted landscapes and rhythms. Its sonic pulsations are still likely to send chills down my back, in a much different way than the Dreijer siblings have managed before. Though Silent Shout produced four singles, none even tried to call to mind their wildly successful "Heartbeats;" for the reclusive brother-sister pair, Silent Shout returned them into the tenebrosity they'd always preferred. Silent Shoutis a luminous and terrifying creature, certain to appear in the upper tier of my official Decade List album ranking come December.
As for the rest, I've "fudged" a bit on some of these. I suppose technically Tom Waits' Orphans is more of a compilation than a 3-disc album. That sort of leeway was granted unfairly to a few others, some of which showed up (Massive Attack's "Silent Spring" with Liz Fraser, PJ Harvey's Peel Session version of "You Come Through," Pinback's "Versailles" off a collection of B-sides and rarities), some of which didn't (I omitted anything off Broadcast's The Future Crayon simply because I didn't have space for them). There are a number of other factors I didn't care enough about to adjust, such as my preference of The Hidden Cameras' Learning the Lie EP from 2005 over their LP Awoo from '06, which features a lot of the same songs re-polished, and the inclusion of Glen Hansard and Markéta Irglová's The Swell Season, which is comprised mostly of songs from the film Once which probably should go along with the film music post I'm working on. With 2006, it's become clear to me the supreme importance of the few people who have shaped my musical awareness and taste for the past several years. So, a lot of credit goes to Bradford and Mike for leading me down the right path(s).
Honorable mention should be given to the Pet Shop Boys' Fundamental, Bat for Lashes' Fur and Gold, Sonic Youth's Rather Ripped and Peter Bjorn and John's Writer's Block. The albums are in loose descending order, with the number 1 as the only absolute.
The Knife - Silent Shout Sally Shapiro - Disco Romance Tom Waits - Orphans: Brawlers, Bawlers & Bastards The Radio Dept. - Pet Grief Grizzly Bear - Yellow House Beirut - Gulag Orkestar Junior Boys - So This Is Goodbye Glen Hansard & Markéta Irglová - The Swell Season TV on the Radio - Return to Cookie Mountain Justin Timberlake - FutureSex/LoveSounds The Hidden Cameras - Awoo Gnarls Barkley - St. Elsewhere Lily Allen - Alright, Still Adem - Love and Other Planets Psychic Ills - Dins
Assorted Jams for the Year 2006
Again, I've placed significance on the singles which made the deepest impression on me. This time around, I've ranked the top 30 and left the additional 70 in no particular order. There are, of course, some annotations to a few of them. Quite a few have incredible videos to accompany them, so if the art of the music video is your thing, check out The Knife's "We Share Our Mothers' Health," Gnarls Barkley's Zelig-inspired "Smiley Faces," Kelis' "Bossy" (yes, really), the Pet Shop Boys' "I'm with Stupid" starring the boys from Little Britain as Neil and Chris, Bat for Lashes' "What's a Girl to Do?" and The Hidden Cameras' "Death of a Tune."
Naturally, not all of the videos are as good as their respective songs. Overlong, non-musical narratives appear to have been in fashion in 2006, the worst of which being Busta Rhymes' send-up of Mr. & Mrs. Smith for "I Love My Bitch," which was known in MTV world as "I Love My Chick." It's joyless, unclever and finds the idea of replacing Kelis, the titular "bitch/chick," with actress Gabrielle Union for the video to be an acceptable one (it's not). "I love my baby" just doesn't have the same ring as "I love my nigga."
And yes, I'm aware of the ridiculousness of including Beyoncé's "Ring the Alarm," off her curiously titled album B'Day (I guess no one alerted her to the homophonous connection one could make with a device used to clean one's anus and genitalia). I must still cling to defensiveness in regard to my guilt-free love of pop music. Hopefully by next month I won't even have to address it. The songs without links weren't mistakenly left without them; I just couldn't uncover them streaming anywhere and didn't feel like mentioning it every time. Enjoy.
The Top 30
The Knife - "We Share Our Mothers' Health" [from Silent Shout] Bonnie 'Prince' Billy - "Strange Form of Life" [from The Letting Go] Sufjan Stevens - "Sister Winter" [from Songs for Christmas] Justin Timberlake featuring T.I. - "My Love" [from FutureSex/LoveSounds] Bat for Lashes - "Trophy" [from Fur and Gold] The Hidden Cameras - "Learning the Lie" [from Awoo] Gnarls Barkley - "Smiley Faces" [from St. Elsewhere] The Knife - "The Captain" [from Silent Shout] The Radio Dept. - "The Worst Taste in Music" [from Pet Grief] Grizzly Bear - "Easier" [from Yellow House] Sally Shapiro - "I Know" [from Disco Romance] Glen Hansard and Markéta Irglová - "The Moon" [from The Swell Season] TV on the Radio - "Wolf Like Me" [from Return to Cookie Mountain] Tom Waits - "2:19" [from Orphans] Pinback - "Versailles" [from Nautical Antiques] Hot Chip - "And I Was a Boy from School" [from The Warning] Cat Power - "The Greatest" [from The Greatest] Ellen Allien & Apparat - "Way Out" [from Orchestra of Bubbles] (thanks, Jordany!) Rihanna - "SOS" [from A Girl Like Me] The Gothic Archies - "Crows" [from The Tragic Treasury: Songs from "A Series of Unfortunate Events"] Lily Allen - "Smile" [from Alright, Still] Kelis featuring Too $hort - "Bossy" [from Kelis Was Here] Beirut - "Rhineland (Heartland)" [from Gulag Orkestar] Amy Winehouse - "Me and Mr. Jones" [from Back to Black] Elvis Perkins - "Moon Woman II" [from Ash Wednesday] Peter Bjorn and John - "Amsterdam" [from Writer's Block] Junior Boys - "So This Is Goodbye" [from So This Is Goodbye] Beyoncé - "Irreplaceable" [from B'Day] Adem - "Launch Yourself" [from Love and Other Planets] Pet Shop Boys - "I'm with Stupid" [from Fundamental]
Les autres
Oakenfold featuring Brittany Murphy - "Faster Kill Pussycat" [from Faster Kill Pussycat] Massive Attack featuring Elizabeth Fraser - "Silent Spring" [from Collected] Albert Hammond, Jr. - "Cartoon Music for Superheroes" [from Yours to Keep] Bat for Lashes - "What's a Girl to Do?" [from Fur and Gold] Psychic Ills - "Another Day Another Night" [from Dins] Grizzly Bear - "Sure Thing" [from the Sorry for the Delay EP] The Knife - "Neverland" [from Silent Shout] The Rapture - "Get Myself Into It" [from Pieces of the People We Love] Busta Rhymes featuring Kelis and will.i.am - "I Love My Bitch" [from The Big Bang] Emily Haines & The Soft Skeleton - "Crowd Surf Off a Cliff" [from Knives Don't Have Your Back] Archie Bronson Outfit - "Cherry Lips" [from Derdang Derdang] Grizzly Bear - "Knife" [from Yellow House] Prince - "Black Sweat" [from 3121] T.I. - "Why You Wanna" [from King] Sufjan Stevens - "Star of Wonder" [from Songs for Christmas] Isobel Campbell & Mark Lanegan - "Deus Ibi Est" [from Ballad of the Broken Seas] Christina Aguilera - "Candyman" [from Back to Basics] Band of Horses - "The Funeral" [from Everything All the Time] Sally Shapiro - "I'll Be by Your Side" [from Disco Romance] Danielson - "Did I Step on Your Trumpet?" [from Ships] The Radio Dept. - "It's Personal" [from Pet Grief] Sonic Youth - "Jams Run Free" [from Rather Ripped] Beirut - "Bratislava" [from Gulag Orkestar] Nouvelle Vague (vocals by Mélanie Pain) - "Dance with Me" [from Bande à part] (I'm not terribly sure whether this is a fan video or not, but Anna Karina dancing to this is just lovely) Kelis - "Trilogy" [from Kelis Was Here] The Knife - "Silent Shout" [from Silent Shout] Hilary Duff - "Play with Fire (Richard Vission Remix)" [from the Play with Fire promo single] (This verse-free, loud remix is the only way to listen to this or any other Hilary Duff song... if only this was the direction her music career was heading...) French Kicks - "So Far We Are" [from Two Thousand] The Speakers - "The Mountain Tomb" [from Yeats Is Greats] Xzibit - "Family Values" [from Full Circle] Justin Timberlake - "FutureSex/LoveSound" [from FutureSex/LoveSounds] The Black Angels - "The Prodigal Son" [from Passover] Beyoncé - "Ring the Alarm" [from B'Day] Soundpool - "On High" [from On High] Lily Allen - "Knock 'em Out" [from Alright, Still] Air France - "Beach Party" [from On Trade Winds] The Zutons - "Valerie" [from Tired of Hanging Around] Alcian Blue - "See You Shine" [from Alcian Blue] Nelly Furtado - "Maneater" [from Loose] Teddybears - "Alma" [from Soft Machine] PJ Harvey - "You Come Through (Peel Session)" [from The Peel Sessions: 1991-2004] Junior Boys - "The Equalizer" [from So This Is Goodbye] Robin Guthrie - "Darkness of the Heart" [from Waiting for Dawn] Grizzly Bear - "On a Neck, On a Spit" [from Yellow House] Ludacris featuring Pharrell - "Money Maker" [from Release Therapy] Awesome Color - "Grown" [from Awesome Color] Amy Winehouse - "You Know I'm No Good" [from Back to Black] Cold War Kids - "Hang Me Up to Dry" [from Robbers & Cowards] Unk - "Walk It Out" [from Beat'n Down Yo Block] (forever linked with that amazing Bob Fosse dance trio) Tom Waits - "Bottom of the World" [from Orphans] Vapnet - "Thoméegränd" [from Jag vet hur man väntar] Mos Def - "Crime & Medicine" [from True Magic] Thom Yorke - "The Eraser" [from The Eraser] The Hidden Cameras - "Death of a Tune" [from Awoo] Grizzly Bear - "Particular to What?" [from the Sorry for the Delay EP] Cat Power - "Lived in Bars" [from The Greatest] Adem - "Crashlander" [from Love and Other Planets] Peter Bjorn and John - "Up Against the Wall" [from Writer's Block] Eagles of Death Metal - "I Want You So Hard (Boy's Bad News)" [from Death by Sexy...] Christina Aguilera - "Ain't No Other Man" [from Back to Basics] Cazwell - "All Over Your Face" [from Get Into It] Gnarls Barkley - "Crazy" [from St. Elsewhere] Grant-Lee Phillips - "Under the Milky Way" [from Nineteeneighties] Asobi Seksu - "Thursday" [from Citrus] Gwen Stefani featuring Akon - "The Sweet Escape" [from The Sweet Escape] Charlotte Gainsbourg - "The Songs That We Sing" [from 5:55] TV on the Radio - "I Was a Lover" [from Return to Cookie Mountain] Tom Waits - "Children's Story" [from Orphans] Phoenix - "Long Distance Call" [from It's Never Been Like That] Grizzly Bear - "Colorado" [from Yellow House]
I must have somehow overlooked a box-set Image is releasing of 3 Brigitte Bardot flicks, under the name The Brigitte Bardot Classic Collection. The set includes three previously released Home Vision titles (are more to come? I sure hope so since HVE stopped putting out DVDs around the time Criterion introduced their Eclipse series): Roger Vadim's The Night Heaven Fell [Les bijoutiers du clair de lune], Marc Allégret's Plucking the Daisy [En effeuillant la marguerite] and Vadim's Don Juan; or If Don Juan Were a Woman [Don Juan ou Si Don Juan était une femme...], Bardot's final film.
A few other DVD announcements that rolled by since my last post: the complete series of The Shield from Fox on 3 November; Michael Mann's Public Enemies on 10 November from Universal; and Blu-rays of Cujo and My Bloody Valentine, the original film in its director's cut, from Lionsgate on 24 November.
Although I have a NEXUS pass, I hate going across the border into the USA. I find the whole process so unfortunate. The level of security is bordering on the preposterous, especially when flying into or through the states.
So it is so refreshing to travel between European countries. In fact, on our way from Luxembourg to Belgium, on a couple of occasions, I took the wrong turn and ended up in Germany for a few minutes at a time. Often the only way to tell was by the more run down buildings and aggressive drivers in Audis with a small D on their license plate!
When we reached Belgium, we did see this border sign, and to let us know that we were truly in Belgium, it was shortly followed by the sign for frittes!
When I was working on the development of UniverCity at SFU, I tried to find other examples of 'purpose built' university towns elsewhere in the world. One place recommended to me was Louvain-La-Neuve, 30km south of Brussels...the only completely new town built in Belgium since 1666. While I thought about visiting, I never got around to it...until earlier this week.
Unfortunately, I did not make any prior arrangements to meet with university officials, and the main information centre was closed (since it was Monday!) But we did look around, spoke with an Irishman who ran one of the many pubs, and took some photos. I would like to have stayed longer, but Sally hated the place, and we both wanted to get to Brussels. I will return one day.
What I found was indeed a completely new town, built in conjunction with a new university. The raison d'etre for the university was linked to the linguistic conflicts between the French and Flemish in the 60's..without going into all the details, it seems that the Flemish students remained in Louven, and a completely new university was built for the French speaking students, along with a new town.
The buildings were designed in the late 60's and can best be described as a vivid example of "The New Brutalism". I found the following description of the place in Wikipedia:
The town was created with the sole purpose of hosting the Université de Louvain. As such all the grounds are property of the University.
Consequently, the University was able to play an important role in the conception and planning of the town. They decided that city should not be only inhabited by students, but rather draw a diverse community as is found in any classic city. Moreover, one of the main points of the urban design of Louvain-la-Neuve was to make it people rather than automobile centred. As a consequence, the city center is built on a gigantic concrete slab, with all motorized traffic travelling underground. This allows most of the ground level of the city center to be car free. Most buildings are built on the slab (la dalle), and the pedestrian area is expanding even far from the city centre.
As evidence by the photos, it is a rather harsh environment. Moreover, many of the buildings have been poorly maintained, no doubt due to the same government policies that make it difficult to maintain public universities across Canada.
While there have been some efforts to create a few elements of delight, the campus felt very oppressive, due to the 70's architecture, the lack of vegetation, and the general scale and site planning. However, some of the newer buildings were quite good, and I suspect that the outlying areas are more attractive. I just didn't get a chance to visit them.Today there are about 30,000 students and community residents. The goal is about 30,000 permanent residents in addition to 15,000 students.
From what I did see, both in terms of the physical form and student and resident programs, I suspect there are lessons to be learned from Louvain-La-Neuve which could benefit the continuing developement at UniverCity and UBC's University Town. If nothing else, it is worth a visit to try the moules frittes at Le Prof restaurant!